Attack of the Brassica

By: Katie Kadue | May 13 2010
Posted in San Francisco Bay Area - Cook It - San Francisco

I’m a voracious vegetable eater, but I have to admit: I’m no big fan of broccoli. I have no qualms with its relatives – fellow crucifer kale is among my favorite foods – but at the thought of a bowl of steamed broccoli, I have about the same reaction as your average eight-year-old.

Photo: Katie Kadue

This is likely because, in homes and steakhouses alike, broccoli is often an afterthought, the standard green sprig next to your steak or the standby substitution for vegetarians. More than once, when I’ve asked for a side of vegetables at restaurants not immediately amenable to the request (“no, I don’t mean French fries”), I’ve ended up with a plate of overcooked broccoli, limp florets drooping from sickly chartreuse stalks. No wonder kids and certain presidents can’t stand the stuff.

But broccoli isn’t all to blame for its bad reputation. Bitter taste and woody texture are often due to lack of freshness, and that sulfurous smell is easily overcome with proper cooking technique (blanching can make a big difference).

Broccoli is in season at Bay Area farmers’ markets (look for vibrant color and tightly-packed buds), and the bright bunches I bring home are nothing like the beleaguered brassica that stalk restaurant side dishes. Sometimes I’ll steam some for just a few minutes so it stays good and green, and then smother it with a saucy dollop of pureed butternut squash.

It’s also great roasted or as a raw slaw doused in creamy dressing (I like thinning tahini with water, and adding lemon juice and minced ginger; toss in chewy currants to counteract the crunch).

Is there a healthy ingredient you’ve been neglecting? Dish out a vegetable you loathe (we can take it!) and we’ll help you make it delish.