By: Tammy Lynne Stoner | October 19 2011
Posted in Portland - Find It - Portland

Lincoln's stirred Risottow with Zucchini, Chili, Prosciutto and a Poached Duck Egg. Photo by: Tammy Lynne Stoner

With so many restaurants to choose from that serve similiar fare, The Local Dish has decided to start a "Showdown" series to determine which places have the best eats. Please join us as we pick dueling dishes, put them through strenuous tastebud testing, and pick a winner!

Ideally, in preparing risotto, the rice (typically either Arborio, Vialone Nano or Carnaroli) is stirred slowly as portions of the liquid are added then let to sit before the process begins again, allowing it to absorb the cooking liquids a bit at a time. This gentle plumping of each grain, creates an ideal foundation for the bells and whistles (vegetables, seafood, etc.) that flavor risotto.

With restaurants, this process must be speeded up so that the risotto can leave the kitchen at a reasonable pace. Often this creates in a lighter, firmer risotto that needs help from a fat – like a poached egg or grated cheese – to achieve creamy status. This showdown pits Lincoln against 3 Doors Down Cafe for a creamy risotto tastebud fight!

Vs. Three Doors Down's flavorful risotto enhanced with roasted corn oil. Photo by: Tammy Lynne Stoner

Lincoln vs. 3 Doors Down

In this battle, Lincoln added poached duck egg to its risotto while 3 Doors Down added parmesan cheese and roasted corn oil. Lincoln's Risotto with Zucchini, Chili, Prosciutto and a Poached Duck Egg went head-to-head with Winter Squash and Parmesan Risotto with Thyme and Roasted Corn Oil from 3 Doors Down.

Both risottos added a good amount of fat for creaminess, as well as seasoned, cubed vegetables for lovely texture and brightness – but what separated them was their balance of salt. The prosciutto in Lincoln’s risotto was not only difficult to cut, it didn’t have the saltiness needed to offset the heavy duck egg. While the parmesan that thickened 3 Doors Down’s risotto added a saltiness that enhanced the warm fullness of its amazing roasted corn oil. Additionally, each ingredient in the 3 Doors Down risotto stood out while blending together. The tender, almost sweet squash was well-paired with the roasted corn oil that also added a touch of smokiness. This risotto, despite the time constraints of restaurant cooking, was subtle and integrated.

Lincoln’s risotto, while a more interesting presentation, mixed flavors that shared too similar a profile, thereby creating an overall bland dish. Where was the chili promised in the name?

Despite its fancy boxing shorts, Lincoln’s risotto lacked the finesse it needed in the ring. Winner: 3 Doors Down

Tammy Lynne Stoner has written for HGTV, Food Network, and Fine Living, among others. She is a novelist, Law & Order junkie and Fiction Editor for Gertrude Press. Her websites are TammyLynneStoner.com and StonerWrites.com.

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