By: Sophia McDonald | September 20 2011
Posted in Eugene - Find It - Eugene

Carmen Periano and Eric Ferguson, owners of Nick's Italian Cafe. Photos by: Sophia McDonald

"Nick's Italian Cafe in McMinnville is probably my favorite restaurant in Oregon," my foodie friend in Corvallis once told me. With an endorsement like that, how could I not check it out? 

A recent jaunt to Oregon’s wine country found me seated in one of the booths at this small restaurant in the heart of downtown McMinnville, perusing a menu with classic Italian favorites.  Afterward, a talk with the owners unveiled a fascinating history.

Nick’s is owned by Carmen Peirano and Eric Ferguson, but it was started by Carmen’s father Nick in 1977.  “He used to say, ‘I have a degree in Political Science, so what else am I going to do?’” Peirano recalls.  Although the family had lived in the United States for several generations, they originally haled from the area around Genoa in Italy.  Nick decided to put his family’s recipes to good use by opening the restaurant. 

Nick’s opened with Carmen was 2½ years old, and she grew up watching her parents and grandparents hand-cut pasta in the restaurant’s kitchen. She and Ferguson took over the restaurant about five years ago and are continuing the tradition of top-quality cuisine using local ingredients whenever possible.

"Without question we’re influenced by what’s here around us in Oregon,” Peirano says.  Italian cooking places a high value on using fresh, local ingredients, so the locavore attitude fits right in.

A delish Porchetta Panini makes a perfect lunch!

One of the best examples of this is the Crab Lasagna, a popular delicacy that features Oregon Dungeness crab and local mushrooms. The Gorgonzola Pizza, which typically comes topped with pear slices, gets fresh figs this time of year. All the pizzas are cooked in a brick oven in the kitchen, which is open so visitors can watch their food being prepared.  Order a pizza and you just might get to watch the chef hand-toss the crust. 

Fresh, house-made pasta is one of the restaurant’s specialties. Try the Tagliatelle with gorgonzola dolce cream or the spicy tomato sauce. The Tonnarelli, a square-shaped spaghetti, comes with classic red sauce and meatballs.

If you happen to stop by Nick’s for lunch, the paninis are a real treat. They’re made with the same dough as the pizza, so the bread is incredibly soft and fresh. The Porchetta Panini has paper-thin slices of pork belly, fennel seeds, chili flakes and herbs. Half a sandwich is plenty, so try pairing it with Nick’s Minestrone, which comes with a generous dollop of pesto. And, of course, the food is delicious paired with one of the Oregon wines from the extensive wine list.

Peirano and Fergusen are making some changes around the restaurant. Nick’s used to offer a fixed menu with five courses and wine pairings. “That felt like too big of a commitment to a lot of people,” Peirano says, so they’ve moved to an a la carte menu.  (The fixed menu is still available with a reservation.)  They’ve also converted a back storage room, where Peirano used to play as a child, into a hip lounge. It’s a more casual environment with a pool table, full bar and, simplified menu.

But many traditions remain in place, particularly the focus on family. Peirano and Fergusen recently had a daughter. Will she be the fourth generation to work at Nick’s? 

“Maybe,” Peirano says, laughing. “But there’s no pressure or anything.”

Nick’s Italian Café
521 NE Third Street
McMinnville, OR

Sophia McDonald is a freelance writer from Eugene, Oregon. In her spare time she enjoys reading, gardening, spending time with family and friends, and dreaming up new recipes.

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