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May 31 2010
Posted in
Cook It -
Colorado Springs, CO
Foodies accustomed to super-tart, San Francisco-style sourdough are disappointed with their first attempts at baking a hearty loaf in Colorado Springs. The dry air, high altitude and different yeasts available in this area create a loaf that is perfectly textured (crispy, chewy crust, with a soft and spongy inside), but with a distinct lack of sourdough's defining characteristic: that zingy flavor.
| Photo: Jane Kollarova |
Peyton resident Richard Blackburn has been baking sourdough for over a decade. He's taught several classes and has discovered a few tricks for those who like their bread mouth-puckering. Step one: forget everything you thought you knew about sourdough. The perfect loaf requires extreme measures in this city.
Pick a perfect flour. Check the label for ash (mineral) content. Why? The higher the ash content, the more sour your finished loaf will be. Whole grains also tend to be more sour than their bleached, enriched cousins.
Use less water. Traditional wild-yeast starter recipes usually call for one cup of flour and one cup of water. In the Springs, though, use just 1/4 cup water for one cup of flour. Why? Thicker starters promote lactic and acetic acid buildup--just what you need for a tart taste. Adding a tablespoon of apple or grape juice concentrate gets things going a lot faster.
Feed frequently. This means feeding your starter at least twice a week if you keep it in the fridge, and one or twice per day at room temperature. Why? "When I want a more pronounced sour flavor, I refresh the starter more often," Blackburns says.
Keep it cool. The longer the dough ferments, the more sour it will be, and all leavening happens more quickly at high altitudes. Proof your bread in a cool spot (the fridge, even!) for longer fermentation and no risk of an untimely collapse.
One last tidbit: adjust for high altitude by lowering the oven's temperature by 25 degrees.


